Thursday, 19 January 2012

Sewing update

Hi All,

The new year is off to a good start. I got a new seeing machine for Christmas, which I have needed about a year. My old machine lasted me 13 years but couldn't handle regular sewing without the tension going haywire and the bobbin jamming. You don't realise how much time and frustration this can add to your sewing.

I used to have an inexpensive Brother machine and having lasted so long I would have been happy to get another. but this Janome had everything I needed.
It is a DC3050, I chose it as it has automatic tension, a rotary bobbin and a good number of stitches and 1-step button holes and is quite heavy so it doesn't jump around when seeing quickly. At £300 it isn't the most expensive machine, but from my research the price goes up from this point for machines with more stitch options. I am not very interested in embroidery so this machine works for me.

So far I have made a beanbag (post to follow), which only took a couple of hours and the machine worked beautifully. I am also waiting delivery of my first dressmakers form on the next few days. I have wanted one for over a year. I am hoping it will save me a lot of time so I can get through more projects.I will keep you updated.

Wednesday, 11 January 2012

Slouchy Cabled Beret Knitting Pattern

Hi All,
I have just finished knitting this hat for myself, which I adapted from some previous patterns (as I never seem to find exactly what I am looking for) and I thought I would share it with you. This hat is finer and more roomy that previous hats I have knitted as I am growing an afro and I need my hats to expand so I can fit in all my hair. I also recently shrunk the last hat I made for myself by washing it in the machine, which has taught me a harsh lesson to hand wash all my woollens, as much as I hate it. 
Back to the hat, the beret shape is a bit more interesting and can be worn in more ways that a traditional beanie, despite being just as easy to knit.
You will need:
·         Yarn: 100g Rowan Pure Wool Aran, or any wool of a similar weight.
·         Needles: 4x 4mm double pointed needles (dpns) and one cable needle
·         A darning needle for weaving in ends.

Stitch abbreviations
K- knit stitch
P- Purl stitch
C3F (Cable three forward)- place the next three stitches on a cable needle and hang at the front (right-side) of your work, knit the next three stitches on the left hand needle before knitting the three stitches off the cable needle being careful not to twist the stitches.
M1(make one)- insert the needle into the next stitch, wrap the yarn around and bring to the front as you do with a normal knit stitch, but before you lift the stitch off the left hand needle knit another stitch through the back loop.
P2tog- purl 2 stitches together
SSP (Slip slip purl)- this is a left leaning decrease which complements the right leaning P2tog. Insert your needle into the next stitch as you would for a knit stitch and slide it onto the right hand needle, repeat for the next stitch. Slip the two stitches back onto the left hand needle. With the yarn in front purl the stitches together, inserting the needle up through the back of both stitches (through the back loop)
K2tog- knit 2 stitches together