Thursday, 29 March 2012

Simplicity 2186 finished skirt

Simplicity pattern 2186- finished

I have finished my first spring project, Simplicity 2186 skirt, spurred on by an unseasonably warm and sunny March. I commented in a previous post that I was planning on altering the pattern as I was inspired by skirts from Jason Wu’s spring 2012 collection, most specifically the dress pictured below. Hopefully you can see a resemblance, in the shape and print at least. As much as I would love to saunter around in layers of asymmetrical chiffon I thought I might get a bit more wear out of a more practical jersey version. 

Pattern: Simplicity 2186
Fabric: John Kaldor cotton jersey in a printed turquoise (£22/meter from John Lewis on Oxford Street, London)
Version: Longer version in the back- altered shorter version in the front
Notions: ¾ inch elastic

Making this pattern was a bit of a style u-turn for me as I tend to veer away from both prints and asymmetrical hems. I think making my own clothes and looking for inspiration has brought out a new daring side to me, even though this print is pretty mild by most standards , it is a start.

I made up a toile of the longer version in muslin. I took several inches off the front panel and cut down in a slope towards the side seams to meet the longer length of the back. When I was happy with the hemline I unpinned it and used the toile pieces to mark out the pattern on the final fabric.

My fabric of choice was a medium weight cotton jersey, chosen as the pattern was reminiscent of that that from Jason Wu’s collection and it has good drape. I did find it difficult to spend as much as I did, but when I was cutting out the pattern I began to realise just how soft and drapey the fabric is and began to soften a little realising how comfortable the skirt would be. It washed well prior to making, without any noticeable shrinkage or loss of colour and being jersey all pattern pieces were cut on-grain rather than the bias, so I only ended up using about 1.2m of fabric.

Altered toile

The pattern instructions were good, although I have one gripe in that the stay stitching on the yokes is on the seam line, which means you have to be very careful when sewing the final seams that the stay stitching doesn’t show on the outside. I used a stretch stitch and finished my seams with a simple zig zag. The last project I made I used French seams which are probably my favourite; however I simply forgot for the first few seams and decided to carry on as I had started. I finished the hem with a herringbone stitch by hand, this skirt has a lot of hem, but I think the finished result is definitely worth it as it is almost invisible from the outside and neat on the onside. I find machine hems can bunch up and if they aren't perfectly straight can be a tell-tell sign that your garment is home made.

The skirt has a simple elasticated waistband, not the prettiest, but suits me for comfort and you can always cover it with a belt if you are tucking your top in.  

Once complete I had a doubtful 5 minutes when I realised just how crazy the hemline is, but that quickly passed and now I am really pleased with the result. I think I achieved what I set out to; now I just need to make something to wear it with!

Top- Right side hem, Bottom- wrongside hem

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