Tuesday, 24 April 2012

Pattern drafting with Winfred Aldrich's Metric pattern cutting

Hello All,

I have been quite a slow week as far as sewing is concerned. It has been raining solidly in London for the past two weeks and I find it hard to get excited about summer projects when it feels like autumn. I did manage to wear my Vogue 1287 dress out to a friends birthday on Saturday(under my winter coat!), but my Simplicity 2186 skirt is as yet unworn and will remain so until tights are no longer necessary.

This weekend I made a start on drafting a pattern from scratch, using Winifred Aldrich's Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's wear. When this book first arrived I was daunted by the diagrams and jargon (I had never heard of an armscye!) but after reading it I realised most to the words or phrases I didn't understand relate to specific measurements on the body and a very good diagram of all the measurements you need to take (about 20 or so) is included in the book. Measuring appears to be the most important factor when drafting pattern blocks using Winifred's method.

I used the fitted jacket with a roll collar and two-piece sleeve block. Despite my fears it fits and it fits well!  I may have to do some slight adjustment on the front dart and I plan to slim the collar, but putting it on I could really tell the difference from a standard pattern or trying something on in a shop. The waist was the right height, the sleeves just the right length and no sagging or pulling- makes so much sense when you think about it, after years of buying in to the fact my body size and shape could be defined by a single number or size- despite several changing room moments telling me otherwise.

Obviously I have only made half a jacket block and I intend to make up a full toile shortly so I can get a more accurate assessement of the fit, but so far so good. I will keep you updated.

Wednesday, 11 April 2012

Vogue 1287 Finished- pattern review

My spring wardrobe is developing nicely. I have just finished the Vogue 1287 Donna Karan dress in a  medium weight jersey. The fabric is a really bright yellow, the camera didn't pick it up well but it also has a hint of lime/neon.

Vogue 1287

I really like this pattern and I am already thinking what other fabrics I can make this up in. It would look great in a sheer/silk fabric and also a fabric with a lot of drape.

I made the pattern in a size 8 as I find the vogue patterns have a quite a bit of ease, also the pattern has an elastic waistband and so many pleats I knew it would be better smaller rather than bigger. I was also able to get a better fabric layout and only used about 1.5m of fabric rather than the 2.2m suggested.

Friday, 6 April 2012

Vogue 1287 dress pattern

I took a bit of a sewing break since completing my asymmetrical skirt adapted from Simplicity pattern 2186 as I didn't have a pattern I wanted to use for my new jersey fabrics. However I have now bought Vogue 1287 from the new spring 2012 collection.

 It is difficult to see from the first picture but the outline diagram shows the pleating. I was having difficultly deciding between the yellow or floral jersey fabric I described in my wardrobe planning post.  I eventually settled on the yellow as I thought the pleating may detract from the floral pattern  (and vice-versa) and that fabric is also slightly thinner and could be a bit see through.

I like the crossover, the gathering and the pockets on this design and I think it will look great in a jersey fabric. I am not too keen on how the back of the neck comes up almost like a shirt collar. I might try an alter it to be more of a scoop neck or leave it off altogether, but I will make a toile and see how that goes. I have some extra time off over the Easter holidays so hopefully I can get a few days of undisturbed sewing and complete a couple of projects.

Happy Easter